So, you’ve decided to take the plunge into the wild, wonderful world of bikepacking. Congratulations! You’re about to embark on a journey that will test your limits, your patience, and your ability to survive on instant noodles and trail mix. But before you can hit the road (or trail), you need the perfect bikepacking bike. And no, your old college cruiser with the basket full of empty beer cans won’t cut it.

Choosing the right bikepacking bike is like choosing a life partner. It needs to be reliable, adaptable, and able to handle your baggage (both literal and emotional). But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to find the bike of your dreams. And if you’re lucky, it might even make you laugh along the way.

Chapter 1: What the Heck is Bikepacking Anyway?

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of bike selection, let’s make sure we’re all on the same page. Bikepacking is essentially backpacking on two wheels. Instead of lugging a heavy pack on your back, you strap all your gear to your bike and hit the trails. It’s like regular cycling, but with more snacks and fewer showers.

Bikepacking can take you through deserts, mountains, forests, and even urban jungles (though dodging taxis while carrying a tent is not recommended). The beauty of bikepacking is that it’s all about freedom. You can go wherever your wheels (and legs) can take you. But to do that, you need the right bike.

Chapter 2: The Anatomy of a Bikepacking Bike

Let’s start by breaking down the key components of a bikepacking bike. Think of this as the “Bike Anatomy 101” class you never knew you needed.

1. Frame: The Backbone of Your Adventure

The frame is the foundation of your bike, and choosing the right one is crucial. There are a few different types of frames to consider:

Hardtail Mountain Bikes: These bikes have front suspension but no rear suspension. They’re great for rough terrain and can handle a lot of abuse. Plus, they’re usually lighter than full-suspension bikes, which is a bonus when you’re hauling a small house worth of gear.
Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes: If you’re planning to tackle some seriously gnarly trails, a full-suspension bike might be your best bet. Just keep in mind that all that suspension can make it harder to carry gear, so you’ll need to get creative with your packing.
Gravel Bikes: These are like the Swiss Army knives of bikes. They’re designed to handle a mix of road and off-road riding, making them a great choice for bikepacking. Plus, they usually have plenty of mounts for racks and bags, which is a big plus.
Touring Bikes: These bikes are built for long-distance riding on paved roads. They’re sturdy, reliable, and have all the mounts you could ever want. But if you’re planning to hit the trails, you might want to look elsewhere.

2. Frame Material: Steel, Aluminum, Carbon, or Titanium?

Think of bike frame materials like personalities. Each has its own quirks, strengths, and questionable decisions.

Steel – The Reliable Tank

Strong, durable, and repairs easily.
Absorbs bumps well—like a hug for your backside.
Heavy. Your thighs will get a workout.

Aluminum – The Speedy Sidekick

Lightweight and affordable.
Stiff—great for power transfer but not as comfy on rough roads.
Can be harsh on long rides. (Your rear might protest.)

Carbon – The Lightweight Showoff

Super light and smooth-riding.
Expensive, and if it cracks, it’s game over.
Less common in bikepacking but hey, if you’re feeling fancy.

Titanium – The Unbreakable Unicorn

Strong, light, rustproof, and rides like a dream.
Costs approximately one kidney.
If you can afford it, go for it!

3. Wheels: The Round Things That Make You Go

Wheels are kind of important. After all, they’re what keep you moving. When it comes to bikepacking, you’ll want to consider the following:

Tire Width: Wider tires provide more stability and comfort, especially on rough terrain. For bikepacking, you’ll generally want tires that are at least 2 inches wide. But if you’re planning to stick to paved roads, you can get away with something narrower.
Tire Tread: The tread on your tires will affect how well they grip the ground. For off-road adventures, you’ll want tires with more aggressive tread. For road riding, smoother tires will do the trick.
Wheel Size: The most common wheel sizes for bikepacking are 26-inch, 27.5-inch (also known as 650b), and 29-inch. Larger wheels roll over obstacles more easily, but they can be harder to maneuver in tight spaces. Smaller wheels are more nimble but may not handle rough terrain as well.

4. Gearing: The Secret to Conquering Hills (or Walking Them)

Gearing is what allows you to pedal up steep hills without crying. When it comes to bikepacking, you’ll want a bike with a wide range of gears. This will give you the flexibility to tackle both steep climbs and fast descents.

1x Drivetrains: These have a single chainring in the front and a wide-range cassette in the back. They’re simple, lightweight, and great for off-road riding. Plus, you’ll never have to worry about cross-chaining (which is a fancy way of saying your chain is in a bad mood).
2x Drivetrains: These have two chainrings in the front and a narrower cassette in the back. They offer more gear options, which can be helpful if you’re planning to ride on a mix of terrain. But they’re also more complex and heavier than 1x drivetrains.
3x Drivetrains: These are like the dinosaurs of the drivetrain world. They have three chainrings in the front and are generally found on older bikes. They offer a huge range of gears, but they’re also heavy and complicated. Unless you’re planning to ride up a vertical cliff, you probably don’t need a 3x drivetrain.
Single-Speed: For masochists who enjoy leg day. Every. Damn. Day.

5. Handlebars: Where You’ll Spend Most of Your Time

Handlebars are where you’ll be spending most of your time, so it’s important to choose ones that are comfortable and suit your riding style.

Drop Bars: These are the classic handlebars you see on road bikes. They offer multiple hand positions, which can be a lifesaver on long rides. But they’re not ideal for rough terrain, as they don’t provide as much control.
Flat Bars: These are the standard handlebars on mountain bikes. They’re great for off-road riding, as they offer more control and stability. But they only offer one hand position, which can get uncomfortable on long rides.
Alt Bars: These are like the hipsters of handlebars. They come in all sorts of funky shapes and offer a mix of hand positions. They’re a great option if you want the best of both worlds.

6. Brakes: Because Stopping is Kind of Important

When you’re hurtling down a mountain with 50 pounds of gear strapped to your bike, you’ll want brakes that can stop you on a dime. There are two main types of brakes to consider:

Disc Brakes: These are the gold standard for bikepacking. They offer excellent stopping power in all conditions, and they’re less affected by mud and water than rim brakes. Plus, they look cool.
Rim Brakes: These are the old-school brakes that clamp onto the rim of your wheel. They’re lighter and simpler than disc brakes, but they don’t offer as much stopping power, especially in wet or muddy conditions.

Chapter 3: The Art of Bike Fit: Because Size Matters

Now that you know the basics of bike anatomy, it’s time to talk about fit. A bike that doesn’t fit you properly is like a pair of shoes that’s two sizes too small—it’s going to hurt, and you’re going to hate it.

1. Frame Size: The Goldilocks Principle

When it comes to frame size, you want something that’s just right. A frame that’s too small will feel cramped and uncomfortable, while a frame that’s too large will be hard to control. Most bike manufacturers provide size charts that recommend frame sizes based on your height. But keep in mind that these are just guidelines. The best way to find the right size is to test ride a few bikes and see what feels comfortable.

2. Saddle Height: The Key to Happy Knees

Your saddle height is crucial for efficient pedaling and preventing knee pain. When your pedal is at the bottom of its stroke, your leg should be almost fully extended, with a slight bend in your knee. If your knee is bent too much, your saddle is too low. If your leg is fully extended, your saddle is too high.

3. Handlebar Position: The Comfort Zone

The position of your handlebars can make a big difference in your comfort and control. If your handlebars are too low, you’ll be hunched over and putting too much weight on your hands. If they’re too high, you’ll feel like you’re riding a beach cruiser. The ideal position will depend on your riding style and flexibility, but a good rule of thumb is to have your handlebars level with or slightly below your saddle.

Chapter 4: Accessories and Gear: Because You Can’t Carry It All in Your Pockets

Now that you’ve got the basics covered, it’s time to talk about accessories. Because let’s face it, you’re going to need more than just a bike to survive out there.

1. Bags: The More, the Merrier

When it comes to bikepacking, bags are your best friend. You’ll need a place to store all your gear, and trust me, you’re going to need a lot of gear. Here are the main types of bags to consider:

Frame Bags: These fit inside the main triangle of your frame and are great for storing heavy items like tools and food.
Handlebar Bags: These attach to your handlebars and are perfect for storing items you need quick access to, like snacks and maps.
Saddle Bags: These attach to your seat post and are ideal for storing bulky items like sleeping bags and tents.
Top Tube Bags: These sit on top of your top tube and are great for storing small items like your phone, wallet, and snacks (because you can never have too many snacks).

2. Racks and Panniers: For the Overpackers Among Us

If you’re the type of person who likes to bring everything but the kitchen sink (and maybe the kitchen sink too), you might want to consider using racks and panniers. These are great for carrying heavy loads, but they can add weight and make your bike less maneuverable on rough terrain.

3. Lights: Because Riding in the Dark is Scary

If you’re planning to ride at night (or even just at dusk), you’ll need a good set of lights. A bright front light will help you see where you’re going, while a rear light will make sure other people (and cars) can see you.

4. Water Bottles and Hydration Systems: Stay Hydrated, My Friend

Staying hydrated is crucial when you’re out on the trail. Most bikes have mounts for water bottles, but if you’re planning to ride in remote areas, you might want to consider a hydration pack or a larger water bladder.

5. Tools and Repair Kits: Because Sh*t Happens

No matter how well you prepare, things can (and will) go wrong. That’s why it’s important to carry a basic set of tools and a repair kit. At a minimum, you should have a multi-tool, tire levers, a patch kit, and a spare tube. If you’re feeling fancy, you might also want to bring a small pump or CO2 inflator.

Chapter 5: Test Rides and Final Decisions: The Moment of Truth

Alright, you’ve done your research, you’ve narrowed down your options, and now it’s time for the moment of truth: the test ride. This is your chance to see how the bike feels in real life, and whether it’s the right fit for you.

1. Take Your Time

Don’t rush the test ride. Spend some time getting to know the bike. Ride it on different types of terrain, and see how it handles. Pay attention to how it feels when you’re climbing, descending, and cruising on flat ground.

2. Listen to Your Body

Your body will tell you if something’s not right. If you’re feeling uncomfortable or in pain, it’s a sign that the bike might not be the right fit for you. Don’t ignore these signals—your future self will thank you.

3. Trust Your Gut

At the end of the day, choosing a bikepacking bike is a personal decision. You’re the one who’s going to be spending hours (or days) on this bike, so it’s important to choose one that feels right to you. Trust your gut, and don’t be afraid to walk away if something doesn’t feel right.

Chapter 6: The Final Word: Go Forth and Conquer

Congratulations! You’ve made it to the end of the guide, and you’re now armed with all the knowledge you need to choose the perfect bikepacking bike. Whether you’re planning to ride across the country or just explore your local trails, the right bike will make all the difference.

So go forth, my friend, and conquer the world (or at least the trails). And remember, no matter what bike you choose, the most important thing is to have fun. Because at the end of the day, bikepacking is all about the adventure. And if you’re lucky, you might even get a few good stories out of it.

Final Checklist for Dummies

☑️ Terrain? Pavement = gravel bike. Dirt = hardtail. Chaos = steel touring.
☑️ Tires? Wider = happier.
☑️ Gearing? 1x for simplicity, 2x for versatility, single-speed for self-mutilation.
☑️ Handlebars? Drops for speed, flats for control.
☑️ Accessories? Bags, lights, snacks. Always snacks.

Now get out there and ride. Your butt (and your sense of adventure) will thank you.